Salmon Fishing on the Stamp and Somass Rivers with Murphy’s

Salmon Fishing on the Stamp & Somass Rivers

While the saltwater opportunities on Vancouver Island are legendary, some of the most thrilling and accessible salmon action happens on the pristine waters of the Somass and Stamp Rivers. These two interconnected waterways, flowing through the Alberni Valley, offer an amazing river fishing experience for salmon.

The Alberni Valley has a rich history tied to these abundant salmon runs. For millennia, the Tseshaht and Hupačasath First Nation have relied on these waters for sustenance and cultural practices, their ancient fishing weirs and traditions a testament to the river’s enduring importance. In more recent history, the valley became a hub for logging and fishing, with Port Alberni proudly proclaiming itself “The Salmon Capital of the World”. While industrial landscapes have evolved, the passion for salmon fishing remains as strong as ever.

The Stamp River begins its journey from Great Central Lake, Vancouver Island’s deepest lake, and joins up with the Ash River before flowing to Sproat River and splitting to the Somass River which ultimately spills into the Alberni Inlet. This unique geography creates a vital migratory highway for salmon returning to their natal spawning grounds.

There are several opportunities for fishing this system by foot, but if you do, be mindful of bears—bring spray and bear bells. You are likely to see bears fall fishing and are fairly docile, unless you surprise them. And if they want your fishing spot, you are best to let them have it. Somass Park as well as the Stamp River Provincial Park (if you like long walks) are popular. A lot of the river system frontage is privately owned and not accessible without permission. I’m a big fan of exploring the system by boat for the solitude and access.

Black bear we encountered on the Stamp River, Vancouver Island, BC

To do it properly (and in style), I like to go with Curtis Leyannar who guides for Murphy Sportfishing. Curtis has written for Island Fisherman on more than one occasion, and as a local to Port Alberni with rich family history of fishing in his blood (his father Jake was very passionate about salmon enhancement, thus the Jake Leyenaar Salmon Hatchery). His local knowledge and dedication to conservation and ethical fishing is nothing but inspiring. Every time I fish with him, I learn something new.

Joel Unickow (L) with hatchery crew (Curtis in back in blue jacket) and Robert Van Pelt, donating funds through the Island Fisherman Sons of Salmon program

River Fishing by boat on the Somass & Stamp River with Murphy’s Sportfishing

Leigh Unickow (L) river fishing with Curtis Leyenaar (R) Murphy’s Sportfishing

Where to Stay

While Port Alberni is only about an hour from Nanaimo, staying in Port Alberni like the Best Western Plus Barclay, so you’ll have an early relaxing rise is the way to go. You can top up your gear at Gone Fishin’, and Port Alberni also has some great restaurants to try like Boomerangs Café (try a kangaroo burger), and Alberni Brewing Co. for a nice local pint of craft beer. For the ultimate experience, Murphy’s offers an all-inclusive stay at the Riverside Lodge in the fall. This is what we did, and we absolutely love staying there.

Muphy’s Sportfishing —Stamp River, BC

People from all over the world stay there, so if you are keen, book early. On our last visit, we met 2 people from Denmark who frequent the lodge annually, and fly fished the river from dawn to dusk. My wife Leigh and I enjoyed the included meals, the coffee and the ride to and from the boat.

Murphy’s Riverside Lodge Port Alberni

The Experience

On the deck the evening before we fished, while enjoying a bottle of local wine, it was exactly like Marilyn Murphy, co-owner with David Murphy, promised, “It’s like a set out of Snow White!” We were visited by bears, rabbits, deer, hawks, and eagles. It really set the relaxing tone for the days to come. The river is a stroll down a path, and the log cabin style lodge is welcoming and comfortable, with all the amenities you’d need.

After a hot breakfast, we grabbed our packed lunch, put on our waders, and Curtis picked us up at the door to drive us to the boat. No need to pack gear—he brought a variety of spinning and casting rods, homemade bait, lures to cast … everything. We pretty much fished right there in the Somass most the day, hooking into multiple Chinook and coho. Curtis’s bait was irresistible on the float, and his spinners were very productive. As we got in the boat before daybreak, the sound of the river was only challenged by the sight of jumping fish.

Salmon on Somass River, BC

I’ve fished with a lot of guides, but one of the reasons we gave him a guide of the year award is his immense local knowledge and uncanny way of gently coaching any level of angler—there’s always something to learn if you are willing to listen.

Curtis preparing his bait.

After plenty of fish and hot coffee, we went upstream to shore the boat in the Stamp River, and fish some of the most amazing, pristine pools you may ever see in a lifetime. Fish were jumping everywhere the entire trip—it’s a scene out of a storybook!

This is a pinnacle of what fishing on Vancouver Island is like. For us, we weren’t planning on retaining Chinook or coho that trip, but with a couple of fish that swallowed the bait too deep, we were happy to retain those.

Leigh Unickow at daybreak on the Somass River, BC

If you are a local that’s never done this, you really should. At only $550 CND for two anglers with a guide and boat, it’s one of the most affordable favourite memories you’ll ever make. Try it in the fall, or try their winter steelhead fishing guided day trip.

For more on a steelhead trip on the Stamp River check out “Reading the River for Steelhead” with Curtis here.

Gear for River Salmon Fishing

River Fishing the Stamp River, BC

Float Fishing For Salmon

For salmon fishing our rivers, float fishing is the popular method, placing your bait—like roe (where legal) or beads—just above the riverbed. Your basic setup includes a long rod, a 300 class spinning reel or bait caster, and the core components for your drift: a float stopper, a float, a weight, a swivel, a fluorocarbon leader, and a hook.

The secret? Adjusting your float’s depth. Salmon often hold tight to the bottom. Dial in your depth to present the bait directly to these resting fish. When that float dips, it’s game on. Remember to always release foul-hooked fish. If you find yourself snagging fish, your leader length is likely too long. The key is to present your bait as natural as possible, and entice a bite.

If you fish with a guide like Curtis, you can tell them your preference beforehand (casting or spinning). They bring a variety of rods and best bait/lures, so it’s the best way to see what the pros use, and what exact gear you are comfortable with.

Curtis and I talked a lot about rods, and this is what we used:

Salmon Float Fishing Rods

Baitcast Rod

Shimano Technium 10’6″ 106M2
Line WT: 12-20lb
Lure WT: 3/4 -1 1/2 oz
Power: Medium
Action: Medium Fast

This rod has been extremely popular for years. It handles large Chinook, coho and steelhead. It’s got the backbone to handle large fish, and sensitive enough to feel bites. Medium fast provides a quicker/firmer hookset and is more accurate for casting at pockets.

Spinning Rod

Shimano Convergence 10’0″ CVS-L-100M-2A
Line WT: 8-17lb
Lure WT: 1/4-1oz
Power: Medium
Action: Slow

This is a super rod but no longer made. Both my wife Leigh, and myself found it a very comfortable and productive rod. It’s perfect for novice and pros. If you favour a spinning reel, look for a rod with similar specs but be sure you go to the local tackle shop and touch it in person.

Joel Unickow Float fishing on the Shimano Convergence

Joel Unickow releasing a Chinook salmon on the Somass River

Spinning Rod for Targeting Coho with Casting Spinners

On the trip, we also targeted coho with lures, but did land Chinook on this rod with no problems. When the fish swam under the boat, we did dip the rod under the boat as it is very flexible, so be careful if you have a powerful hookup.

Fishing 13 Fate Steel 9’6″ SSS96ML-2
Line WT: 6-10 lb
Lure WT: 1/8-1/2 oz
Power: Medium Light
Action: Moderate Fast

Curtis and Leigh with a Chinook caught on a spinner

Reels for River Fishing for Salmon

There’s not much to say here, you want a 300-class reel in either scenario. Brand comes down to preference and budget, but I did really like the Fishing 13 Concept A3 low profile bait caster that we gave an award to last year. It’s light, and still powerful. You can also remove the spool without tools to address a horrible backlash if it happens.

I also have a Shimano Stradic C3000XG spinning reel—it’s so light, you’ll love it (if you can find one). You’ll also love the Amundson Runner X RUX3000. At $89.99 CND, you absolutely can’t go wrong. It’s also saltwater resistant, so you can use it on the beach.

Float Fishing Line and Gear

Your reel can be set up with a mainline of 30 lb braid, but Curtis points out that a lot of guys run 40 or 50 lb, because it’s still so thin. He then runs about a 17″ mono bumper for the slip float rig of 15 to 20 lb with inline lead, bead, then swivel or snap for quick changing leaders. Use a 12 – 15 lb fluorocarbon leader, at about 15 – 24″ depending on the water you are fishing.

For his spinner fishing setup, Curtis likes to use 20 lb braid and a 15 lb bumper tied directly to the lure.

As for float size, about a 25 g or 30 g float is pretty common, but can vary depending on depth and speed of the water as well as the weight of the lead you have on. We have a popular article, “3 Tips for Better Float Fishing” here.

A decent hook for bait would be between 1/0 and 3/0.  As for bait, keep in mind that the majority of rivers on Vancouver Island have a bait ban so you’ll want to tie up some leaders with a variety of wool and beads. A good hook would be the size #1, like the  Mustad Alpha Point ADX Advantage bead hook. The Stamp River does have bait openings in a restricted area below the Girl Guide Falls, by the gun club. However, before fishing any river, check the current regulations before heading out. For an in-depth article on Float Fishing Soft Beads on the River, click here. We were able to fish roe on this trip, and soon we’ll be asking Curtis to share his brine recipe 😄. However, if you are curious, check out our Curing Salmon Roe for Bait or Caviar here.

Thank you to Marilyn and David Murphy for having us up, and of course, Curtis, for memories we’ll cherish. See you soon for steelhead!